Picture Thread for removing, installing, and priming MY2000 SAAB 9-5 turbocharger.
Before you start you need to have the proper tools for the job. For this job I find it helps to have a variety of extensions, metric sockets (7,10,12,13), torx sockets, ratchet wrenches, box wrenches, pliers, etc. If you don't own these the money you'll save doing this job yourself will pay for them many times over.
(1) Disconnect the Turbo bypass. You don't need to disconnect the vacuum line from the turbo bypass valve, but merely place it aside once released.
(1 cont.) This can be done by removing the clamp (arrow at bottom of picture) then remove the turbo bypass tube (one 10MM bolt and clip holding it into the Turbo intake Pipe/Cobra Pipe). Don't lose that clip... it's easy to do. Also don't lose the O ring which seals it.
(2) Remove the Heat Shield (one 13MM nut on the stud indicated with an arrow). The top of the heat shield merely clips to the extended studs securing the exhaust manifold to the head.
(3)Disconnect the coolant hose from the top corner of the radiator and bend it aside. Coolant will spill out so be ready with a catch pan.
(4)Unplug the fan (two electrical connections) A small flat head screw driver can be used to pry the red clip up. Remove the fan (two 10MM bolts on the top corner of either side (not pictured). The fan can be tricky to remove it needs to be tilted and pulled out.
(6)It's not completely necessary, but I prefer to remove this intake air hose (two 7MM hose clamps).
(7 cont.)Disconnect turbo lines from Turbo compressor housing, waste gate, and cobra pipe. Also, wear rubber gloves (I ran out) then you won't be spending the next week trying to get crud out from under your nails.
(7 cont.) Remove the boost controller (slide it off) and push it to the side.
(8)The banjo bolt from the cobra pipe needs to be removed (don't lose the copper washers) to move this to the side there is also a torx screw which secures it to the valve cover.
(9)Once you've removed the PCV line banjo bolt (13MM), loosen (no need to remove unless you want) the three 13MM bolts to prepare to remove the turbo intake pipe.
(10) Last step to remove the Cobra Pipe you must loosen the clamp which is between the turbo and the cobra pipe... to do this it requires a torx bit on an extension.
(10 cont.) I find it easier to get to this clamp using a long extension as show here.
(10 cont.) I find it easier to get to this clamp using a long extension as show here.
(13)Drain oil and remove the oil filter. I find this a good time to do an oil change with full synthetic oil and a premium filter (this is not the place to cut costs).
(14)Disconnect exhaust from Turbocharger (three 13MM studs + nuts). Don't worry if the nuts come off or if the entire stud comes out they will go in the same way they come out. The bottom is the trickiest to get out.
(14 cont.)The bottom nut of the exhaust pipe can be the trickiest, but a ratcheting wrench is the best option to remove it. This picture is from underneath.
(14 cont.)Remove the exhaust pipe. If the exhaust pipe doesn't move you may need to jump to step #20 and remove the bracket from underneath the car (on my car this was removed).
(15)Unbolt Turbocharger from exhaust housing (four 13MM studs + nuts). Again, don't worry if nut comes off or entire stud with nut comes off they will go in just as they came out.
(16)Remove the coolant feed line banjo bolt (12MM) from directly beneath the water pump left of the turbocharger (left while standing in front of the vehicle). Don't lose the two copper washers.
(17 cont.)Remove the 12MM banjo bolt from the turbo coolant return line and remove the rubber coolant line which has a hose clamp (circled in blue).
(17 cont.)Remove the 10MM bolt which holds the turbo coolant return line in place. It is located approx. halfway between the turbo and banjo bolt just removed.
The next several steps are from under the car.
(18)Remove banjo bolt (12MM) from oil feed line located directly above the oil filter location. Don't lose the copper washers.
(19)Remove the turbo bracket (two 13MM bolts)
(20)Disconnect the turbo oil drain line to sump (2 hose clamps),
(21)To remove the turbo drop turbocharger down.
(21 cont.)The trickiest part of removing the turbo with the lines attached is the long coolant return line which can get caught up on the oxygen sensor line, etc. So once you get that free it isn't much a problem.
(21 cont.)The trickiest part of removing the turbo with the lines attached is the long coolant return line which can get caught up on the oxygen sensor line, etc. So once you get that free it isn't much a problem.
(21 cont.)
I did a turbo swap Mitsubishi for Garrett for this particular job, but the steps are identical for a direct replacement.
I did a turbo swap Mitsubishi for Garrett for this particular job, but the steps are identical for a direct replacement.
(22)Now that you've removed your old turbo install your new turbo it by following the reverse directions. Dealerships recommend replacing all gaskets, copper O rings, etc. although I have reused all with no problems.
(22 cont.)Refill coolant. Refill oil etc.
(23)Great, now that you've installed your new turbo you need to prime it so as not to do any damage to it. To do this follow the next steps.
(24) Unplug the Direct Ignition Cassette (DIC) which is located directly on top of the engine.
(25)Unplug fuse 19 for the fuel pump.
(26)Crank engine for several seconds (10 should do fine) so as to prime the turbo with oil.
(27)Plug everything back in and start her up. Depending on how long you primed the turbo it is normal to see some smoke coming from around the turbo area it is persists after everything is warmed up then check for leaks, etc.
Of course if you've followed these directions to upgrade your turbo you'll want to flash your ECU to get everything out of the TD-04. Also a boost gauge is a very fun addition.
Enjoy your SAAB!